Okay this one is at the top because it is my absolute favorite! It is basically a fancy macaroni with strong swiss cheeses, cream, butter, small cut potatoes and longer, thinner macaroni noodles. It is then topped with crispy fried onions and wait for it.... ApfelMousse! (apple sauce) I'll be honest I don't think I'll ever be able to eat macaroni any other way. It is incredibly delicious and super popular with the kids.
The first time I had it was actually with the Simmler family at their farm. It is the kids' favorite lunch. Susanne had actually baked the macaroni with the onions on top which is not always typical, you can add the onion laters. Then you can top it with as little or as much cold apple sauce as you want. I liked it so much I made it in my flat for dinner two nights. You dice up the golden potatoes and boil them. Naturally you then make the macaroni and add the potatoes in after. You add your strong mix of Swiss cheeses (really your choice) with some cream and butter. Top with some crispy onions and bake or just dive right in and add you apple sauce.
As mentioned in my previous blog I had also eaten the Alpine Macaroni on top of Jungfrau and this was the height of Swiss experience for me.
Raclette is actually the name of a Swiss cheese commonly sold in the Alpine countries for the dish of Swiss Raclette. It is based on heating the cheese to get it melted on a skillet or grill then pouring the cheese over sausage, boiled potatoes, onions or pickles. Usually Raclette is served with all of these things.
At Besen Beiz you can order Raclette and it comes with onions, pickles and bread but you can order a sausage or potatoes on the side which folks usually do. This dish was actually mentioned in Swiss texts in as early as 1291.
Raclette is a strong cheese that can turn people off at times so it could be an acquired taste for the Swiss. Pairing it with potatoes or sausage though is simply the best.
In a few upcoming blogs I will be ranking my favorite Swiss chocolates as Switzerland has an international reputation as some of the best chocolate in the world. There are many companies that have been around for many years still producing chocolate in Switzerland like Nestle and Lindt, only a few of the many famous chocolate brands.
In 1875 a man named Daniel Peter, who was a Swiss pastry chef, developed the very first solid milk chocolate using condensed milk. This milk was of course invented by Henri Nestle. Cailler was actually the very first Swiss chocolate brand created in 1819 which is now known as Nestle today. In 1901 chocolate producers actually got together and created a patent protecting all Swiss chocolate producers. Is it time to quit my job and become a chocolate maker in Switzerland? Yes.
We all know Fondue, but I will explain anyways. Fondue is a traditional Swiss cheese dish served in a large communal put over a portable stove with usually a candle keeping the cheese hot and melted. Originally the only thing dipped was fresh bread into the cheese and it was a social event. Over time the word "Fondue" has been used for other things similarly to the cheese like chocolate and broth.
Fondue is actually a passive past particible of the French verb fondre which means "to melt". The earliest findings of fondue was actually from a book written in Zurich in 1699. This original recipe also included wine mixed in with the melted cheese.
After World War II the Swiss Cheese Union began to send out Fondue sets to event organizers and Swiss soldiers and is now the symbol of Swiss unity.
This one was tough for me to write but I had to include it. When coming to Switzerland this is something you must try. Appenzeller cheese is named after the Appenzellerland of Switzerland where this special cheese has been made since the middle ages. The landscape around Mt. Santis provides the raw milk for this cheese and 52 small villages in the area, mostly on mountainsides, produce this interesting cheese.
It is a semi-hard cheese usually sold in full-fat or quarter-fat. It is quite a greasy cheese but the flavors on the official Swiss Cheese Union website describes the flavors as clean and aromatic. It is the most popular cheese sold in Switzerland and loved by every Swiss person I have met.
Personally: The cheese tastes and smells just terrible. It is the only cheese I have every disliked. Truly giving the term "stinky cheese" a reason for existing. Even when entering cheese markets here, the Appenzeller is usually wrapped up separately due to the overwhelming smell. they wouldn't want it to stink up the shop or stick to the other more mild cheeses.
This is any easy one that anyone can make at home. The reason this is included is that I have eaten more of this dish since I have been here than probably anything else. It is a very nice, light dish that goes well with pretty much anything you are eating. Instead of a traditional lettuce salad, this is what we would have instead.
Susanne would slice the cucumbers up very thin and pile them in a bowl. Then she would add salt, pepper, dill and Italian dressing. That's it! And it is so good I could eat it with every meal. Essentially every country seems to have their own variation of this simple salad.
Rosti is the fancy Swiss term for hashbrowns, or since the Swiss were first Rosti is probably the right word. Originally is was a breakfast dish for the farmers of Bern being an easy and cheap dish to create. It also has alternative names like a potato pancake.
Traditionally Rosti is served with spinach and two sunny side up eggs but now so many variations of the dish are offered. there are so many traditional Swiss restaurants that serve Rosti for all meals but now it is mostly sold for dinner. Rosti is mostly served in the German speaking regions so when passing on to the French regions of the country it is actually called Rostigraben which literally translates to "Rosti Ditch".
If you have read my Bernese Oberland post you will know that I visited the Top of Europe: Jungfraujoch. This is a mostly glass building on top of the largest mountain in the Bernese Oberland: Jungfrau. I decided to write a separate mini blog about this experience because there are quite a few things to do. I thought it was important to share my experience so that if you decide to visit you'll know what to see. First thing you must know: it was an extremely expensive excursion but you can spend the whole day up there. The train to get to the top of Jungfrau was about 200 Swiss Francs for me. Quite outrageous, but I figure they are trying to make up for their losses during Covid-19. Even though it was expensive I found it 110% worth the money especially if you love the snow and the mountains like me.
Just when I arrived I surpassed all of the historical walkthroughs and restaurants. I was on a mission: to see the snow. I really went out of order. When we arrived I walked quite a long ways through a dark cave, it had to come out somewhere. I then arrived to this heavenly opening overlooking the snow covered tops of the Swiss Alps. I believe I cried a little bit at the beauty and magnificence of what I was seeing. It was beautiful. Mountains 360, crystal white snow everywhere, blackbirds flying around. There was one other thing in my view: the Snow Bar.
It had funky mood-fitting music playing. Something you would hear on an epic travel reel or new-age documentary. The bar served coffees, alcoholic hot chocolates, pastries, cocktails and even more. Then they have lounge chairs set up overlooking the spectacular views. I grabbed a hot chocolate with rum and cream then a butter pretzel and sat for a good hour. Many people around me actually sat longer. One thing you'll find about me on this blog is that I really despise sitting still. I feel like I am wasting time when I could be seeing new things... I really need to work on this.
When I had finished my delicious goodies I had overheard a man saying that a hike to the top of Jungfrau that overlooks the other side is only a 45 minute walk. Of course it is straight uphill but I thought: that isn't so bad. My problem was I didn't have the right shoes on. I only brought Chacos. Due to the intensity of the sun above the clouds though I wasn't cold and decided to make the trek.
I did have to stop on the way up a few times. My ears were burning and I couldn't tell if it was from the cold wind or the altitude getting to me. The uphill battle was brutal and I wasn't the only one stopping. The view however just kept getting better and better naturally. I had contemplated stopping many times, there were many reasons I could have given up. I knew that I would absolutely regret it if I did not finish this hike, not for anyone else but myself.
I made it to the top to admire the beautiful view of cliffs and mountains on the other side. Still snow covered but unbelievably beautiful. There was a restaurant at the end of this hike (that took me over two hours by the way... 45 minutes my ass). It was awesome you could only reach the restaurant by hiking and you needed to put on provided sneakers before you entered. Due to what I thought was altitude sickness I wasn't in the mood for eating or drinking anything, so I promptly walked down back the way I came.
Not only is there a Snow Bar on this side but also a sledding hill where there is even an escalator so you may continue to sled until you are worn out. Due to my choice of shoe I did not sled, but I watched many people do it. Many families plowed into big snowy hills just like orange leaves on a nice Autumn day. The sleds were like inner tubes just gliding down the slick and compact snow.
This adventure did scare me though. Somehow it wouldn't seem hard for someone to go just a little too fast and end up sliding all the way down Jungfrau, as they were right on the edge. I thought: In America they would never allow this.
Mini Adventure: On this side there were also helicopters parked. They offer birds eye views of the Alps and you can go up in a helicopter. I should have splurged and done this, it looked incredible.
Now this was a cool experience that I think everyone would find cool. After doing the historic and detailed walkthrough of the Jungfrau history I stumbled upon some stairs that pointed "Ice Palace". It was down below, underneath Jungfraujoch. When I arrived to the bottom of the stairs I walked through an entire hallway made of ice. From floor to ceiling slick ice just surrounded you like a tight cave.
I skated my way down the hallway, and this was pretty fun, I felt like a little kid. I arrived to some bigger rooms with mazes of tunnels. Every wall had a different work of art all made out of ice from penguins, to bears, to pianos and everything in between. All of the ice was bright and beautiful, perfectly chiseled like a cut diamond. There were even ice displays in the walls to gawk at.
Lindt had recently open a tiny factory and shop up on Jungfraujoch. There is a historic walkthrough about the history of chocolate and the process of making the chocolate but then you have the shop. Beautiful shiny truffles just in piles everywhere, naturally I bought a bag. Lindt truffles are definitely hard to beat.
There is also some bragging rights by visiting the tallest chocolate shop in the world. Me being one of the biggest chocolate lovers on this planet... it was only fitting for me to pay this shop in the sky a visit.
Jungfraujoch has four restaurants to choose from. One you must hike to but the rest are available as soon as you hop off the train. One is a sit down restaurant called the Crystal. Although I wanted to eat here it was a little busy and I was ready to head back down the mountain (I'll explain why in the next point!). I decided to go to the self serve cafeteria where the food is also very good. You have many traditional Swiss and European eats to choose from. I had my personal new favorite: Alpine Macaroni. I am writing a blog next on the best Swiss eats so I will explain this one in detail!
Naturally I also got a tall beer and I sat in front of the huge glass windows where I could admire the snowy rocks one more time. Talk about a good view for a meal, this was something to brag about.
On the way up the mountain I had noticed there were many hiking trails that were near the tracks. You could hike up or back down from Jungfrau. I promised myself that I would ride one stop, get off the train and hike down the mountain. The hike was almost on a cliff and gave the most amazing views I have every seen. Rolling green hills with color pops of beautiful mountain flowers being towered over by giant black mountains covered in snow. Just spectacular.
I got off the train and proceeded to hike down. I was the only one doing this, I didn't see anyone else on my wandering. The weather was even perfect, sunny and cool. Great day for a hike. I didn't really do it for the exercise though... I did it for the view. Again.
I decided to take a walkabout through the Bernese Oberland with only a backpack. This is the first time I have ever done something quite like this all by myself. It was empowering and quite peaceful. I was able to be alone with my thoughts, go see some amazing sights on my own time and do the things I only want to do. I was able to have some of the most amazing experiences in the Bernese Oberland which is considered one of the most beautiful places Switzerland right in the heart of the Swiss Alps.
Grindelwald is a charming little town at the very base of the Eiger Mountain and one of the two towns within the region that serves as almost a base barrier to the Swiss Alps. Just south east of Interlaken in the Bernese Oberland it truly is my personal favorite town within the Alps. Truly charming with the richest Swiss culture, classic restaurants, art shops, and well preserved parks all surrounded by the white cap mountains on all sides.
The name Grindelwald actually comes from two monks in the region in 1146 and was always quite the place to visit. It comes from Old High German grintil - which means wall or barrier - and walt - which means forrest. A war actually happened shortly thereafter it was founded and it was taken over by the nobles. Overtime the monks of the Monestary of Interlaken bought Grindelwald back. The nobles then moved on to found Bern, the country's current capital. In 1888, right after the golden age of alpinism, Grindelwald had a road built so that tourists could easily get to the town. It then became the first winter resort in Switzerland for skiing, snowboarding, sledding, curling and skating.
Fun Fact: Grindelwald's surrounding mountains were actually used for the filming of Star Wars Episode III - Revenge of the Sith (2005). Some shots in the famous movie based on its novel "Golden Compass" or even James Bond (1969) was also filmed in Grindelwald.
I arrived in Grindelwald to hike Grindelwald First - One of the most famous hikes of the Bernese Oberland. The reason for "First" as it is suggested to be your first hike in this region to set the tone for your adventures. The overlook of Grindelwald first overlooks a great portion of the Swiss Alps as well as the three famous mountains; Jungfrau, Eiger and Monch. In the town, I had a nice German beer and admired the mountains for quite a while. Afterwards I had walked around looking at the Swiss souvenirs, chocolates and food selections. The town, even if you're not into hiking, is truly the most pleasant Swiss town to visit. Just be careful, you will find that Grindelwald 148 days per year has either quite a bit of snow or rain due to its location at the base of the mountains.
Interlaken is the main large town within the Bernese Oberland surrounded by beautiful mountains and is in between two beautiful and bright blue lakes; Lake Brienz and Lake Thun. Interlaken in German actually means between lakes. Between the two lakes, the river Aare flows which I have mentioned in a previous blog for flowing through Bern as well.
I happened to kayak on the beautiful Lake Brienz of Interlaken. It stretches about 8.1 miles across the north end of the Alps. I know from experience that because it is fed by the Aare River which is coming from the glaciers of the mountains above, the water is absolutely freezing even in the warmest of temperatures in the valley. I promised myself I would take a dip no matter how cold. Was I glad I did it? Yes. Would I do it again? No.
Believe it or not the lake is extremely poor in nutrients, hints why is is so blue. In essence the lake is too clean, even fishing is not a popular sport within these lakes.
I grabbed a kayak from Hightide Kayaking School ($40 for three hours; a real deal). They gave me a life vest and sent me on my way. I got my own kayak out and was the only one on the water that day. I paddled over to a nearby rock beach and took my icy dip in Brienz. After this I kayaked along the cliffs near the old structures and castles seeing old rope swings, many baby ducks and the most crystal clear blue water under those cliffs. An old time steam boat passed me by with many tourists. They waved and whistled at me and I waved enthusiastically back. This absolutely made my day.
Especially during a slower day when not many people are on the lake, the incredible peace that water can give you and the rejuvenating cold water is almost healing. I felt like a new person after this simple experience.
I will be writing an entirely different blog about Jungfrau. Although an extremely expensive excursion, if you are passionate about the mountains and snow just as I am, the trip to Jungfrau is definitely worth it. The trip up was long but incredibly beautiful. There were quite a few stops up the mountain so there were opportunities to jump off, hike up or even part of the way up then hop the next train. I promised myself I would get off and hike down the mountain when I was finished at the top.
Jungfraujoch is nicknamed "The Top of Europe" and is one of the most amazing sights in the Alps (hints the outrageous price). The name actually means "maiden saddle" in German and Jungfraujoch actually connects the two mountains of Jungfrau and Monch. It sits at 11,362ft above sea level. Since 1912 Jungfraujoch has been open to tourists by its historic and well preserved mountain railway which is the oldest and highest in Europe. The mountain itself has an extremely rich history that is too much to go into here but I will in my next blog about Jungfraujoch and its excursions.
When I first arrived up there, I cared not to see the restaurants, shops or historical walk through. I wanted to see the snow and the glorious peaks. I walked about quarter a mile through a long dark cave until I came to the white heavenly end. The glare from the crystal white snow was so incredibly bright I had to put my sunglasses on right away. I was above the clouds so of course the sun was shining as bright as ever. I had an alcoholic hot chocolate with schlag (unsweet whip cream) and a butter pretzel while I enjoyed the incredible view. I next decided to hike the, what was supposed to be 45 minutes turned into over 2 hours of hike, up to another one of their restaurants and an overlook to the other side of the mountain. It was uphill, I was exhausted and I was in Chacos but I told myself I would absolutely regret it if I didn't finish it. After the hike and seeing the restaurant I walked through their magnificent ice palace, had lunch and enjoyed the tallest chocolate shop in the world.
A great experience that I believe everyone should experience once in their lifetime.
This is something I unfortunately missed out on but Interlaken is famous for this. Looking up into the sky above Interlaken every day you will always see 5-15 paragliders in the sky. Many people, including Americans, in my hostel did this and said it was incredible. They start on high mountains then slowly drift down to the city center. You are able to see many of the famous mountains as well as a birds eye view of Lake Thun and Lake Brienz.
My last day the weather was awful. Raining, cold and cloudy almost the entire day. I needed to figure out something to do other than hiking. I did a little bit of research and decided to go just on the edge of the Bernese Oberland above lake Lucerne just on the other side of the mountain. There is a beautiful resort hotel on top of the mountain above the lake. If you arriving by foot you must take a ship and a cable car to get there.
The Burgenstock resort is beautiful but be prepared for about 1500 francs per night. I went up and went straight to the spa. I'm not sure why I picked this one as there are many amazing spas in the Bernese Oberland. I walked in and was immediately greeted and treated like royalty despite looking like a dirty backpacker. I asked if there were any massages available and low and behold their was. I got a full body Paris massage for fifty minutes and access to the entire spa for the rest of the day.
After my amazing full body massage I decided to wear my robe and explore the spa. The spa had three levels, the top level with a spa garden and restaurants, the second with a heated indoor-outdoor infinity pool, and the first level the actual spa. Each floor overlooking the glorious Swiss Alps and Lake Lucerne below. I spent most of my time in the spa section that had a full hot tea and fresh fruit bar, a quiet solitude room with comfy beds that overlooked the mountains, a dark room salt water pool for floating and a green tea sauna. The nude section also had a relaxation room, two dry saunas, two wet aroma therapy saunas, showers, ice baths, hot tubs, an ice room and a freezing infinity nature pool with algae.
As soon as I walked in a woman stopped me. She said "come, come!" She grabbed my hand and pulled me to the dry hot sauna (200 degrees F). She explained in some broken english that we would be doing a breathing treatment. I sat on special blankets in the sauna and immidiately started to sweat. She put big balls of ice on the hot coals, one with lemon oil and one with peppermint oil. This was supposed to help our breathing and relaxation. She then took a big blanket and waved it around to I guess increase the intensity of the air? Then she gave us ice to rub over ourselves then used a feather to cool us off. I'll be honest this actually burned because the feather would provide a little bit of cold but then the heat would come back to my skin full force. Lastly a man came in and passed out long sticks of frozen grapes to cool us off. How awesome is that.
The lady asked me to come back in one hour. So I enjoyed the rest of the spa as much as I could. My favorite part was sitting in the extremely hot dry sauna then jumping in the freezing cold outdoor nature pool. I did this quite a few times to give my body a great shock. I came back in an hour and the lady was standing outside of one of the very hot and wet aroma saunas. We all went in and sat down. She first gave us a bowl of milk. What? Everyone started pouring it over their heads so I did the same. She then gave us all handfuls of honey and told us to use it in our hair and on our face. So I did it; crazy but I did it. Did I just get a milk and honey bath? Then she gave us big handfuls of salt. We began to scrub ourselves all over intensely. It was a full body scrub, I get it now. Afterwards we all showered.
This was one of the most luxurious experiences of my life and it was not at all that expensive. I highly recommend this one for your next trip.
If you expecting a great big blue lake, please reset the expectations. The Blausee, although beautiful, is only about a third, if that big, of a football field. The Blausee, which literally translates to the "blue sea" or "blue lake". It is at the base of the Alps and was formed 15,000 years ago due to a massive rock fall from Fisistock Mountain.
After a short and beautiful nature walk through rich forrest you come to the Blausee which is almost a little special haven away from the outside world, like a mountain oasis. It is something you would imagine the Neverland fairy forest would look like. The water all year round is crystal blue where you can always see the bottom although I have found from some angles it looks quite green. I hiked around the lake which only took about 15 minutes. I admired the river and mountains around as I walked, taking pictures on a timer of course due to being solo.
The Legend: "Long, long ago, the charming little lake in the upper Kander valley looked different to what it does today. Its water was very much the same as all the other little mountain lakes. But near its shores lived a maid whose heart beat for a young herdsman. On bright moonlit nights, the two would make their way to the alpine lake surrounded by ancient fir trees and sit on a raft the young man had made to pass the time. Afloat on the silvery water, they passed many a happy hour dreaming their youthful dreams. Then one day the herdsman tumbled over a cliff as he was gathering hay prior to bringing it down the mountain - and was killed. The maid was inconsolable from that moment on. In the middle of the night, she would go the little hidden lake and mourn her lost love. Little by little, she began to lose her mind. She paid her parents no heed when they begged her to cease her nightly visits: their unfortunate daughter kept being drawn to the lake by a mysterious force. One morning, the maid and the raft were found at the bottom of the lake - and its water has taken on a deep-blue hue ever since. People say it’s due to the tears of her unhappy love - the water is as blue as the eyes of the unfortunate maid."
Eiger is one of the three most famous mountains in the region. Although it is the second highest peak in the Bernese Oberland is it still the most dangerous to climb. Eiger has a 90 degree black wall of stone that leads to the peak of the mountain. Many climbers all over the world every year come to attempt this intense climb. This wall is actually nicknamed "Mordwand" which literally means murderous wall. As I would not suggest climbing or going up Eiger for anyone, there is a beautiful hike that leads you up close and personal to this Northface wall.
The food is obviously one of the best parts, cheese and chocolate fondue, alpine macaroni, delicious cuts of meat with hollandaise sauce, then of course the rosti! Rosti is like hash browns usually loaded down with some delicious meats, cheese and veggies. Restaurants will usually have a pretty great selection.
Wine growing has been apart of the Simmler family in Buchberg Switzerland for many generations. Marcus Simmler is now the current organic wine grower and president of the agriculture group in Schaffhausen Switzerland. As I have stated in my previous blog Markus and his wife Susanne focus on a very sustainable way of living by using only goods produced on their farm and in the region to fill their restaurant and small Hofladen market. Markus is also the oldest wine grower in the region (meaning their vineyard is the oldest). Their steep hills and access to great sunlight in the summer time makes Buchberg the perfect place for grapes to soak up the Swiss sun. Every year they produce about 30,000 bottles of wine over 8 acres of grapes which is truly not much, but because of the fine quality of the grapes only the best are chosen.
In my previous blog I had described the growing process and the work that I had experienced in my time with the Simmler family in the vineyard. This was truly an unforgettable experience that I will continue to forever be grateful for. I also had the privilege of meeting all of the wine growers in the region who came for a tour, tasting, wursts and desserts. As well as this I also got to facilitate a wine tasting in the vineyard for a group that hikes the vineyards with a guide and tries the best wines of Switzerland. So cool!
This romantic, light red wine has strong strawberry and blackberry aromas. Very soft start on the palate; broad with heavy berry with a dense but not dark ruby red color. A full-bodied and noble wine that goes well with grilled dishes such as sausages (wursts) or even sirloin. This red wine is also served well with unpeeled potatoes, and heart vegetable dishes preferably those which grow in cooler seasons.
When picking these grapes, when they are only babies, I noticed that Pinot Noir while not being a red grape was actually bright green before it matures.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 14 to 16 degrees Celsius or 57.2 to 60.8 degrees Fahrenheit.
More Info: Pinot Noir is actually derived from the French words: pine and black. The reason for pine is the grapes are actually bunched up together in a tight cluster creating a pinecone shape. The grape is actually mostly associated with the Burgundy region of France.
Pinot Noir is actually one of the most difficult grapes to utilize for wine. Due to its tight cluster it requires micromanaging of light exposure and hand-trimming of leaves to make sure that every grape get's adequate nutrients.
The new and exclusive red wine from a resilient grape that withstands many harsh conditions and obstacles; Prior is truly convincing with its rich fruit flavors such as raspberry and blackberry with soft tannins. Its aromas are also truly fruits and very sweet on the nose. It has a powerful and slightly darker ruby red color than the Pinot Noir. Very persistent in flavor and has a finish full of character. This red pairs well with darker meat and even Mediterranean dishes such as lighter and even heavier pastas and rice dishes.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 14 to 16 degrees Celsius or 57.2 to 60.8 degrees Fahrenheit.
More Info: The PIWI grapes is actually a fully fungus resistant grape. It is actually considered a hybrid grape or different red varieties. As it is brand new there is not much information. Prior is actually considered the best hybrid of these grapes. Typically this grape has complex and extravagant aromas with slightly spicy fruit notes.
This wine has the very tradition cassis note (black current liquor made in Burgundy France) or Cabernet combined with the soft tannins of Pinot Noir give this wine an incomparable and exotic touch. The original rust aromas and storage within the barrique barrels make for a well rounded red selection. It goes wonderfully with cold meats and mature cheeses.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 14 to 16 degrees Celsius or 57.2 to 60.8 degrees Fahrenheit.
Typically the Cuvee Barrique wine is just a very different way the wine is stored for fermentation. In this case the wine was stored in steel or granite tanks for a new and improved wine flavor. It was actually a practice borrowed from the dairy industry in the 1960s. This an extremely hygenic way for wine makers to keep their wines clean and free from any outside invaders such as bugs and other smells. These tanks also are tightly sealed which keep the fragile fruit flavors and aromas well intact.
Aromas of peach and pineapple with strong floral influences really shape this delicious red wine make from red grapes. (This one is my favorite!!!) This fresh white wine has a light sparkling attack with a full body and a long aromatic persistence. Excellent as an aperitif Markus would say or great with cold dishes such as charcuterie, fine cheese and sweet desserts.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 8 to 10 degrees Celsius or 46.4 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
More Info: This wine is actually a very cool traditional wine for the German culture typically drank in the months of September and October. The Feather White refers to a very young wine similar to just an alcoholic grape juice. Yeast is actually added to the freshly picked and pressed grapes. This causes the sugars in the grape to quickly ferment in presence of the yeast and this is what gives it that sparkling attack. Traditionally this wine is also drank with a traditional German dish: Zwiebelkuchen or onion cake made with usually bacon and cheese. Yum... I need to try this.
Grapefruit and citrus aromas of the rare Johanniter grapes give this grand sparkling beverage a personal touch. It has a refreshing and intense carbonation that is naturally created during the fermentation. Full-bodied and reviving wine is a great aperitif that goes well with cold dishes and more fruit forward desserts.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 6 to 8 degrees Celsius or 42.8 to 46.4 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Johanniter grape is actually a more rare grape to Swiss wine growers. It is actually a hybrid grape resulting from artificial self-fertilization between Riesling and Freiburg. It was a grape created in 1968 by Johannes Zimmerman at the Freiburg Research Center. It is a highly productive and resistant grape with strong citrus flavors hidden by residual sugars.
This amazing drink is just as simple as it sounds. So unique and delicious in taste, there is actually nothing like it on the market. Hand-picked grapes from local cultivation and the best, bubbling spring water from the Alpstein in Switzerland - no more, no less.
White Selection: Sparkling and refreshing with hints of cool green grapes and green apple.
Red: Full-bodied and intense in dark fruit flavors but still sparkling and fresh.
Thanks to the natural softness of the local grapes, this trendy spritzer is isotonic and wonderfully refreshing. This slightly less sweet grape spritzer is ideal as a thirst quencher, an alcoholic drink mixer or as even something to flavor your water.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 5 to 7 degrees Celsius or 41 to 44.6 degrees Fahrenheit.
The pleasure of grapes without the alcohol, aromatic and elegant this drink is truly a work of art.
White: Intense scent of peach, pleasantly tingling body, sweetish-elegant, persistent finish.
Red: Intense raspberry aromas, pleasantly sparkling body, with a slightly sweet-tart finish.
Excellent as a non-alcoholic aperitif and as a refreshing thirst quencher. Here at the restaurant they also use this as an amazing mixer for cocktails and other wines for delicious wine spritzers or just to add a little more sweetness to the wine.
The correct serving temperature of this wine is 5 to 7 degrees Celsius or 41 to 44.6 degrees Fahrenheit.
For the last three weeks I have been honored to stay and work at Besen-Beiz, learning from the farmer himself (Markus) and the restaurant owner Susanne. They run a sustainable and passionate operation for food and wellness in the north east region of beautiful Switzerland. Right below Schaffhausen and just above Zurich, Besen-Beiz is truly one of a kind. You can enjoy traditional Swiss Racklette, fondue, wursts and wine underneath the beautiful grape vines grown there while listening to the bells of the Swiss cows and the baby goats at play.
"Through a sustainable and ecological way of working, we are able to create optimal foundations for flora and fauna in order to be able to offer our guests natural products of the highest quality." Susanne & Markus Simmler
From the cheese, bread, meats and veggies all of the food served at the Besen-Beiz restaurant comes from the north east region of beautiful Switzerland. They also run a shop just above the restaurant that is casually open every day where you can buy these amazing and fresh products. Susan Simmler, the owner and full time operator of Besen-Beiz, only believes in the most high quality and non-processed products. She is a true gem and I highly encourage having a conversation with her during your visit.
The meat comes from right there on the property. Twenty of the finest grass fed cows are kept on property until they take the journey through the circle of life. All of the beef that comes from the restaurant was actually raised right there on property. The cheese comes from the Hopfengut Stammheim and the Henggart Cheese Dairy. They also use locally roasted coffee (which I love) from Henaur Kaffee, Tea from Hori Company in Thayngen, fresh flour from the Oberembrach Mill, fresh pasta and oils from the Wagis Farm and trail mixes made in Lucerene.
During my time here I was also privileged to watch fresh bread, desserts and vegetables come every day for restaurant service. Besen-Beiz has actually been so busy that multiple orders would have to come in at a time. You can also get tours of the vineyard and a one-on-one drink with the owners and farmer.
Along with their many fresh goods produced here they also have a wide variety of fruits grown on the property to the highest quality. You can pick cherries straight from the trees in the garden, plums, pears, walnuts and apples. After climbing up in the trees to help with some fairy lights for the restaurant I noticed just the most beautiful and perfectly red cherries. Beautiful, but I really don't care for cherries. Markus's son, Dominick, asked me to try one. I will not turn down free food. The cherry was plump, sweet and so delicious like a strawberry. Needless to say I now like cherries.
The Simmler children, Anna (9) and David (7), also run their own little business during the busier restaurant hours. Not only does the restaurant have a giant nature playground, farm animals and a carrousel but the Simmler kids offer other activities for the little ones. Anna offers "Alpaka Trecking" which is like hiking with an Alpaca around the vineyard as well as pony rides. They have three sweet and well mannered little ponies for the kids to all enjoy.
David however loves motorsports and offers the kids rides on his four-wheeler around the farm. The activities range from 10-25 Swiss francs and it brings in many families with kids of all ages.
Not only do the Simmler kids enjoy giving this experience to other kids but it also teaches them a little bit about business and running their own operation. Mature kids if I do say so.
Besen-Beiz despite their delicious food is well known for their wine selection. They have been growing some of the finest wine in Switzerland since I was just a little girl. I remember my parents going to wine tastings and dinners at Besen-Beiz and bringing home many bottles to friends and relatives in the U.S. The Simmler family produces about 30,000 bottles of wine each year from 8 full acres of vines grown on the steep hillsides of Buchberg. The grapes are grown here then pressed and processed by the Kumin company just south of Zurich.
Markus specializes in the growing of these fine grapes. He even helps others get their vineyards started. When I arrived the plants were already about 2-3ft high. We hand trimmed all unnecessary leaves and branches making sure the grapes had enough sunlight and room to grow. "This ensures top quality" says Markus. He showed me that it was not good for wine quality if two branches came out of the same place. Each plant should only have about eight vines and the weaker ones should be discarded. Since the leaves are the powerhouse for the vines soaking up all of the nutrients, it was very important that only two leaves be taken from each branch and no more. So in this tedious process, all trimming was done by hang throughout the entire vineyard.
After this, the vines are treated for protection and maximum nutrients. This is all done by drones, and believe it or not this is the cheapest and most efficient way.
After about a week of growth the plants get around around 5ft. They grow extremely fast. You start to see little bitty bunches of grapes growing off of each vine. This is when we begin the process of making sure the vines are vertical and growing tall. The vineyard is structured like a grid and the vines, once they are tall, are held up by posts and strong wire. By hand we had to pull each vine into these wires and clip them tight so that the vines remained upright, along with discarding unnecessary leaves and vines that are soaking up too much energy.
One week later the plants are taller than me. Between 5.5-7ft we make sure each vine is still growing vertical so we repeat the process of trimming lightly and putting each wine in place. The grapes are a little bit bigger and we can start to really see color. When the grapes are that young, green grapes will make red wine and yellow grapes will make white wine. I had the privilege of working on the Pinot Noir and Rieseling vines.
In August the harvest will start, hand picking each grape carefully.
Their large number of tables and high volume is only taken care of by usually two ladies and two cooks. The heart of the team is of course Susanne Simmler along with her most trusted colleague; Ragi (who I just adore). The two most hard working employees are Carina and Tania as they work almost every day to make sure the restaurant always stays clean and well stocked. Carina and Tania are about my age and have come from Ukraine. They truly are the most kind and hardworking girls I know. While I have been here, I have learned quite a lot about them and where they have come from. Very eye opening and I hope to stay friends for many years to come. Their head cook, here on the busier days is Armin and he is from Egypt. Incredibly friendly and he always greeted me with a smile. Susanne has a few other incredible ladies that help to take orders and make drinks. I was able to work with everyone on the team in some form or another.
Of course apart from the employees, everyone from the family jumps in and helps. Much like Rushing Trading Co. the family fully operates and runs the business. The kids help with coffee and desserts while Dominick (the oldest son) and Markus maintain the grounds and the area for the restaurant.
If you thought Besen-Beiz couldn't get any cooler as a restaurant, it really can. All of the honey used and sold in the Lindenhof is produced by Markus's father Erwin Simmler. He raises 16 bee colonies with close precision and passion.
When I first arrived in Switzerland I had probably the worst allergies of my life. Swollen eyes, runny nose, constantly sneezing, the works. I tried everything from the medicines here to steaming showers. During lunch one day Erwin noticed I was struggling even though he spoke no English. The next day he brought me two-day old honey to help with my allergies. It helped my allergies immensely and I will always be thankful for this gift!
Their hours of operation are very concentrated on the busier days. Fridays they are open from 6pm-10pm, Saturday 12pm-10pm and Sunday 12pm-6pm. Due to most of their seating being outside in the garden and under the grape vines; when the weather is too cold or it happens to be raining the restaurant stays closed. However the Lindenhof market stays open every day from dawn to dusk.
They are also closed from November-April every year on account of cold weather and personal family vacation time. I love this!
Besen-Beiz hosts the most amazing events, and this is probably my favorite part about their restaurant. Almost every week they host some type of exciting and traditional Swiss happening. They host many wine tastings for each season showcasing their best bottles from the previous year. This is probably their most typical event. While I have been here they also hosted a Robin Hood Challenge Tournament for anyone who would like to try their hand at Archery. They will also hold a tradition Swiss Horn Yodeling concert, specialty breakfast sausage tasting, another concert for accordion players then my absolute favorite: the open air keno.
The restaurant sets up a big open air keno on their farm with a very rustic and old-time vibe. Every year for this they also pick a theme. This year it is the great music legends; Walk the Line (Johnny Cash), Bohemian Rhapsody (Queen) and Rocket Man (Elton John).
Coming soon to Besen-Beiz is also an amazing new experience; The Escape. Similar to a high-profile scavenger hunt you will be able to come to the restaurant, get a backpack, adventure books, special locks and puzzles then you will be able to hike the vineyard and the farm to find clues and win a bottle of wine at the end. This is a new attraction that will be available at Besen-Beiz this coming fall. The creators are now busy at work creating a custom experience for the guests at this specific location. This will be an excellent attraction for the entire family.
March of 2022 was my first opportunity to visit the beautiful state of Hawaii; the island of Oahu to be exact. I had decided to visit my childhood friend Ellie who goes to the University of Honolulu. I got the local tour of Hawaii staying in a 300 sqft studio apartment, eating at the local hole in the walls and visiting the non-crowded local beaches. If you are not into the tourist vacations, I highly suggest taking more of a local approach to a new place. I believe you meet cooler people, see unusual things and the best part: eat the most amazing food.
Due to the fact that Hawaii is a cluster of Islands in the middle of the ocean and the farthest island from any other large land masses; their seafood is unlike any other. No doubt Hawaii is famous for their amazing Poke bowls which is definitely one of my favorites.
In Oahu they sell poke bowls on every street corner. Sketchy small places, fancy places, beach side restaurants, grocery stores, even gas stations. Poke is served almost everywhere I went. Dream come true for me. From the seafood to the avocados everything is unbelievably fresh. I am reluctant to have another bowl here in Atlanta because I'm afraid I would be a little disappointed!
My first night arriving, Ellie and I immediately went to the beach. We walked down the sand and watched the sunset. In our stroll we came across a small beach cafe with some of the best poke in town according to Ellie. Honestly, there was nothing I wanted more! Luckily even with their long dinner line they hadn't run out of poke yet. We had mango smoothies and ate by the water. A simple poke dish with two small scoops of rice, basic tuna, green onion, massago and spicy mayo. The simplicity was divine. Incredible first meal? Absolutely.
One of the only dishes I had twice during my stay; on the last day before our chocolate tour (which I will get to soon) we stopped at a local small grocery store where you could build your own poke bowl; Foodland Farms. This one was definitely spicier but bigger and much bolder. I had fresh salmon this time with edamame, fresh avocado, rice puffs and spicy mayo on a bed of warm white rice. This bowl was closer to something I would get at home so it set the bar incredibly high for my next poke bowl experience.
Alright, acai and smoothie bowls are hit or miss for me. I am more of a chocolate fan anyhow and smoothie bowls are not something I usually seek. Seeing as Hawaii is famous for them of course I had to give them a try. They are also extremely healthy and filling. They used so many ingredients and like poke bowls you could find them on every corner. Some used matcha, spurilina, macadamia nut butter, fresh fruit, coconut, cocoa nibs, granola and even more.
I think the reason I enjoyed the smoothie bowls so much is the flavors of the fresh ingredients used. There are so many amazing exotic fruits grown in Hawaii that are used in these bowls. Pineapples (actually native to South America), Mangos, Avocados, Coconuts, Apple Bananas, Lychees, Papayas and more. Those fresh mangos and pineapples really made all the difference to me.
My first bowl (yes I also had two of those) was a mix of apple bananas, spirulina, star fruit, coconut water, blueberries and strawberries on top from Sunrise Shack.
This dish truly knocked my socks off and I would eat one every morning if I could. The second bowl was blended with matcha, cocoa, macadamia nut butter, apple bananas, coconut, granola and chia seeds, also from Sunrise Shack. It was definitely heavier but I really couldn't tell you which one I enjoyed more.
I won't lie to you, I was surprised and a little grossed out as you might be reading this now. Gas station sushi rolls and poke bowls? I wouldn't think so, but this is just one of those things you must try when you're in Hawaii. So many of the locals swear by 7/11's famous sushi, rice bowls or spam musubi (similar to a sweet spam nigiri). Not only is this interesting but cheap! The small grab-and-go sushi rolls are only $1.69! What?!
Like I had described with poke bowls, the array of fresh seafood and ingredients make it easier to keep and store these kind of snacks safely. Not only this but because of how frequent these items fly off the shelves, they keep them in constant rotation.
Hawaii's number one fresh fish is Ahi referring to two types of tuna; yellowfin and bigeye. They also serve a great bit of Mahi Mahi, Moonfish, and Hapu'upu'u (the hawaiian name for sea bass or grouper).
I was so excited to try this in Hawaii. This is something else I also had twice but completely on accident both times. The first time was actually at a small farmers market. A baker was selling many fresh coconut pastries, donuts, fresh fruit and some amazing mango sticky rice. I had seen it on food blogs before, even on instagram but never in person. They served the sweet coconut cream on the side I guess to keep it fresh and not soggy. This dish would be a dessert I could have every day (which says a lot because as you know about me I am a chocolate fan).
This is a traditional Southeast Asian dessert usually eaten with a spoon or with your hands even. It is commonly made with fresh mango, white rice, tapioca starch, coconut milk and sugar, then topped with sesame seeds.
My second time was in a small Thai kitchen that was even difficult to spot from the street, Thai Isaan Waikiki. there were only locals there and I didn't plan on getting dessert. I enjoyed an amazing Massaman coconut curry with tofu then saw the mango sticky rice on the menu. It was my last night and of course I had to have it.
I only ate this dish once but it was unlike anything I've ever had. Of course you can get udon everywhere, but can you get homemade udon everywhere? Hawaii had so many amazing influences from South American and Asian countries their cuisine was different a diverse. A great example was this over-the-top, bigger than my head bowl of udon noodles with crab, cream and fresh truffle. Excuse me? Truffle? Cream? Noodles? Seafood? Count me in.
Surprisingly it wasn't a heavy dish but a comforting one. The noodles were huge and soft just soaking in the cream broth. Ellie and I went to eat this after an exhausting day of walking in the city (oh so exhausting) right before she went to her shift at work. We passed a few udon places on the way but she was determined to go to this particular place; Tsurutontan Waikiki. I wish we had one just like it in Atlanta.
During my last day in town, Ellie, her friend Kylie and I took a trip to the other side of the island passing through jungle and fog to Kailua for a chocolate tasting and tour. We entered a small building that looked similar to a classy cafe with a bar right in the middle. Manoa was founded by Dylan Butterbaugh, an Oahu native who now grows cocoa beans in his back yard. I related to Dylan of course as a college student starting a business and he was there working in his factory while we were there!
We took a small tour through the room and tested out some fresh cocoa nibs. they had even brewed the shells into a tea that smelt like hot chocolate, YUM. They explained the chocolate making process and the growing process in Hawaii. We learned that Hawaii is the only state in the united states with the appropriate climate and humidity all year round for growing cocoa trees.
The chocolate was truly remarkable. They come out with a different flavors every month to match the freshness of the products and the holidays year round. We tried their passionfruit, banana, coconut, goat milk, mango, coffee and sea salt flavors. Goats milk was my favorite and probably the strangest flavor they offer. They offer a selection of bars that are also 100% Hawaii grown cocoa beans, of course these are more expensive, but worth every bite. Each bar retails about $10.50 a bar, so be selective!
Oh this is my favorite part, let's talk coffee. TRS Coffee was my first coffee shop I visited near the university. Ellie decided to take me for their vintage furniture and minimalist shop design. The art on the walls was strictly black and white with bright red pops and accents. The light fixtures were vintage copper while the furniture and floor were a dark oak wood. I was in love. Not only was the coffee shop beautiful and classy but the cold brew was smooth and bold. They didn't use a lot of ice which I appreciated and the caffeine high was perfect for a small cold brew. For breakfast: a fresh everything bagel with cream cheese, arugula and smoked salmon.
Our second coffee shop was a retro diner-like shop with neon lights, funky colored light bulbs and even a sun room off to the side called coffee talk. I had a tumeric honey latte (not my usually coffee fix but it was fine) and Ellie had a delicious out milk almond latte which is something she had raved about for weeks. What really stole the show for me was the mushroom quiche that is freshly baked in house. I really needed a protein boost for the afternoon and it was the perfect snack. Ellie and I enjoyed our coffee and talked for hours about boys, politics and social issues. We truly had such a nice time here and it will always have a special place in my heart for the time I was able to share with a friend.
My next coffee shop adventure included an iced super charge coffee... what? Me the coffee expert not knowing what super charged coffee is? I was embarrassed but hey you learn something new every day. Super charged coffee is similar to a cold brew with 20% more caffeine content in which they add green coffee extract to give you the extra boost. I drank mine how Ellie orders hers every day which is with light cream and raw sugar. Believe it or not this was my favorite experience of the trip. Smooth and sweet it truly was the perfect ice coffee.
Honorable mention: The smooth loaf of Hawaiian banana bread Ellie and I shared at the beach.
The Gryphon Tea Room building was actually built in 1926 and was originally used as a Scottish Rite Temple. Later on in the 1900s it served as an apothecary to the Solomon brothers of Savannah. Then in 1981 SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design) purchased the space and turned it into a fine dinning tea room. They only use locally sourced ingredients and always bake the creative desserts and pastries in-house.
Walking into the Gryphon Tea Room you are transformed back in time to an early 1900s library. Old books surround the walls and the original Tiffany light fixtures and stain glass windows remain well preserved inside the building. Of course this was more of a romantic trip so my love David and I started the morning off with a refreshing beverage. For him the Atlanta Peach; peach nectar, fresh lime juice and ginger infused sparkling water. For me the Ooh La Lacoste; Harney & Sons earl grey tea, lavender, vanilla and steamed milk. Are we surprised I picked something earl grey? Absolutely not. For lunch David had the Gulf Coast Shrimp and Grits with creamy smoked gouda stone-ground grits, tomatoes, green onions and chopped bacon. I believe the dish really needed some sort of sauce as it was dry and slightly on the bland side. I went for a lighter dish and had a small sandwich with smoked salmon, cream cheese, avocado, applewood smoked bacon, tomato and greens served on multigrain. The real showstopper was the amazing homemade dessert, created by the long-time pastry chef who works in the basement; so mysterious! We shared their earl grey cream puff (that tasted more like pound cake stuffed with earl grey cream) with lavender ice cream and lemon cream. This end to the meal really left a good taste in my mother (HA no pun intended).
What makes this tea room very special is you can order a high tea with their daily selected loose leaf teas. This consists of fresh fruit, finger sandwiches, fresh pastries, chocolates and petit fois. This was my second time at the Gryphon and it did not disappoint!
This was actually David and I's favorite place to eat in Savannah believe it or not. Originally the shack was a fish camp established in the 1930s. In 1983 a couple moved from Atlanta to Tybee in search of a quieter and happier life. They bought a fish camp marina and decided to start running fishing charters. The location actually did not start as a restaurant but just as hang out with good food and drinks. The word grew about the amazing seafood and more and more people began to show up. This tiny shack of a restaurant is mostly outside with views of the amazing sunsets. Cats roam the restaurant floors and an alligator habitat resides right outside the restaurant's front doors (I say doors but it doesn't really have doors). The atmosphere is that of an original shack fish camp but very family friendly. You can feed the alligators, take funny pictures, play games and even pet the cats. Unfortunately we came during low-tide which wasn't great for the nose.
We were sat directly by the water and attended to immediately. It being so hot we only drank water (I know, boring) but quickly out came our appetizer and entree. I should really say five entrees. We had two deviled crab claws; which really curved the craving for a crab cake; buttery and full of flavor. Then David and I shared this massive captains sampler platter for two. It was a circular platter with fresh melted butter directly in the middle. Surrounding was steamed shrimp, snow crab legs, mussels, crawfish (or crawdaddies), sausage, corn on the cob and potatoes. We managed to finish all of the seafood and only left a few potatoes, a few pieces of sausage and one corn on the cob - because the one food I really hate it corn.
Alligator Soul is one of the finer restaurants of Savannah and very difficult to find. The award winning restaurant can be found under the city in a cellar. It was once a grain warehouse in 1885 then renovated and founded by Chef Hilary and Maureen Craig in 2003. They only use the freshest ingredients from the region including fresh daily seafood and grass fed beef. What they were truly made famous for was their alligator; surprisingly one of the only restaurants in the city to serve alligator. Unfortunately we did not have a chance to visit this amazing place this short trip but last time I had come for a young birthday. My mother tried some of their amazing wines from their wine list and of course we tried the alligator. The best part that I remember was the dungeon-like atmosphere with dim lights and cold stone. Almost as if we were in a wine cellar or the catacombs... one or the other.
For the Chef, every day is a different journey. Not only do they announce the fresh fish served that evening but he also introduces other meats into the daily selection from Kangaroo, Ostrich, Game Birds or even Red Deer. Be careful, some of the dishes can get up to some very high price points but I think anything created by this chef is worth it.
What a treat and a must see for any chocolate lovers passing through Savannah Georgia. With all great ideas they start with cocktails. Alexandra Trujillo de Taylor met Adam Turoni at a cocktail party in Austria although Adam is from Pennsylvania. He brought with him beautifully packaged chocolates that he had made himself. Alexandra was intrigued by this amazing talent Adam had, and after a few cocktails in 2011 Chocolate by Adam Turoni was born.
The shops are carefully designed to bring you back to that cocktail party in Austria. Old European sculptures and decorations and books. Perhaps the most incredible part about this experience is when picking the chocolates you are given a small wooden platter and little silver tongs, You must then open up antique glass armoires and select your chocolate yourself from all corners of the shop. What a cool and interactive concept that can get every chocolate lover excited.
Adam's flavors are unlike any other. He has a few staple flavors while always introducing new truffles due to the seasons and new found techniques. For Savannah his staple truffle is the Dark Chocolate Silk Filled Bullet, spray painted with an edible silver. He also has Honey bee truffles all year round; square dark chocolate truffles filled with Savannah Bee Company honey. As for the temporary flavors we had the dark chocolate peanut butter cup with sea salt, the cafe americano truffle, the lemon and mint truffle (my favorite; white chocolate lemon cream with a candied mint leaf on top!) and the Hazelnut Creme Piruli, We enjoyed these truffles with a coffee just a few doors down from their Library location (there are three in Savannah).
I thought this restaurant was going to be one of the most overrated places in Savannah. Why? The Olde Pink House has been a restaurant and a staple on the Atlanta ghost tours for a very long time. They say it is one of the most haunted places in Savannah (which is saying something because most places in Savannah are very haunted). David and I decided to stop in for drinks after a long day of walking around and touring the Sorell-Weed House. We walked in and were lucky to get the last two seats at the bar in the back of the restaurant. The staff was excellent and walked us through the old halls of the house. Every room was a different bright and ridiculous color from lime green to an obnoxious blue. There was old decor, taxidermy animals and paintings everywhere. I did not expect anything overwhelmingly good.
The Olde Pink House has an amazingly long history, and I love ghost stories so I'll try to make this quick. The house was built for a great follower of the British crown, James Habersham in 1771. He was one of Savannah's most important cotton factors of that time and one of the wealthiest men in the city. He died there in 1799. He had quite a bit of beef with his sons which were hardcore followers and supporters of the American revolution. Some say they can see James eating and enjoying in his restaurant often. In 1812 the home became the first bank in Georgia. After the civil war the house changed owners and purposes many times until it became a restaurant in 1992.
We sat down and immediately got drinks. An in-house barreled bourbon for David and a dirty gin martini for me. he didn't care for the bourbon but our bartender really knocked one out of the park with his old fashioned. Of course I browsed the menu, after all it's in my nature. Everything sounded so incredible I needed to order something to snack on. We ordered the southern sushi; smoked shrimp and grits rolled in coconut crusted nori. Sushi and shrimp and grits, I will take one! It was salty and smoky, on the inside with the consistency of rice. The outside was almost like a coconut tempura on a bed of pickled radishes for a more sour flavor or almost a pallet cleanser. It makes me wish we had made reservations there for dinner. David got another old fashioned while the bartender made a special drink for me; gin, fresh raspberries and lemon. Needless to say, I ordered another one for the road.
Unfortunately this trip we had a bitter-sweet trip to the Grey. You may know The Grey restaurant from the famous Netflix show: Chef's Table. After watching, the chef, Mashama Bailey, became one of my idols. She co-owns the restaurant and is true to her craft. My first experience at The Grey was nothing short of spectacular. I had the Chef's tasting and tried many cocktails as well as many glasses of their fine wine. Flavors were incredible, the atmosphere is historic and clean and the service was even better. I will never forget the amazing fois gras and grits topped with onion gravy. What an explosion of southern flavors all wrapped up in an elegant package.
The Grey is actually a restaurant set in an old segregated bus station. Keeping the important elements of this historic sight, the owners brought a 1983 art deco style that in my opinion can never be outdated. The restaurant has clean lines and retro modern lighting with neon white accents above the in the skylight. Their color pallet is mostly neutral whites, grays and blacks naturally but has heavy blue and gold accents. Their bar is in the center of the dinning room and serves as a centerpiece.
The menu was set up similarly to the first time I visited. We sat up at the bar which I prefer for conversation, questions and drink watching. There was a four course menu that could be chosen from: Pasture, Water, Dirt and Pantry. This is set $75 per person with an option for a wine pairing. The only other option was the chef's tasting. Due to it being so incredible the last time, David and I splurged for this one being $150 per person (we did not do the wine tasting). I started with the Wildflowers Cocktail which was banana, egg whites, bourbon and almond foam (also their featured cocktail on their instagram) it was slightly underwhelming. There was no banana flavor and you always think with egg white you are getting more of a creamy cocktail which was not quite the case here. David had the Thorn in My Side which had rye, maraschino cherries, sherry, maple and bitters. This one was very good and we proceeded to give compliments to the bartender. Unfortunately they did not care to talk to us much this time. Even though the restaurant had just opened and it was slow the service seemed to truly fall short.
We started with the amuse bouche with a deviled egg, a pate and baguette and another small snack. Very good but not overwhelming with flavor, quite forgettable. Then an egg salad topped with asparagus and some sort of heavily salted meat - thicker than a prosciutto but similar flavor profile. Unfortunately the egg salad being heavily salted did not go very will with the meat as I had to eat them separately. The asparagus seemed not seasoned at all and quite close to raw. This was not a great second course for me. The next course was my absolute favorite our of all six. It was a deep fried sweet bread, buttery mashed potatoes and collard greens. How could you go wrong? Unfortunately David mentioned the fryer oil being a little burnt for the sweet bread but overall a solid and delicious third course. My next cocktail was the Octopus Garden which was gin, lime, honey dew, centum herbs and seltzer; also a miss for me quite sour and heavy. David's next drink was again quite good; the Gardenia which was rhum, cachaca, cardamom, lime and bitters. Quite creative.
The fourth course was rather strange, I didn't hate but didn't love. I think this one was attempting to catch the attention of vegan eaters. It was a bed of seasoned quinoa topped with a large grilled slab of zucchini with almonds and a sweet fruit cubed on top. Possibly a melon? It was a sweet dish with some sort of cucumber creme fraiche on top, not exciting enough in my opinion. Next we had the white cheddar stone-ground grits with a non-spicy crawfish etouffee on top. This one was David's favorite however lacking in flavor for me as I wrongfully compared it to the fois gras and grits I had previously. The fifth course (which we waited about forty eight minutes for) was the scallops. Perfectly cooked in a delicious buttery broth of edamame and asparagus? Again? If I am doing a chefs tasting of quite this scale I really would prefer not to see the same staple ingredients for such small dishes. I will give mad props though, the scallops were everything I dreamed they would be.
Afterwards we got a small popsicle pallet cleanser (if you would like to know the significance of this you can watch The Grey's episode on Netflix). Our final course was a giant slab of spongey thick chocolate cake. I sure love chocolate but it was almost like due to the size of the previous courses they were trying to make you full with the dessert. It was served with candied oranges on top and a burnt orange gelato on the side. That gelato was incredible and I could have eaten an entire container. The cake however was quite dry when it made it to us and it seemed to not fit with the rest of the meal.
While I was in the restroom after our second course, David happened to stop a manager and ask her if Mashama Bailey could stop by and say hello as she was walking around talking to others. He explained that Chef Bailey was a great inspiration to me and that it would mean a lot for me to meet her. The manager then said of course I will let her know. Three hours later we left, quite hungry and unsatisfied. I didn't know about the interaction until later at the hotel but I never got to meet Chef Bailey. I was saddened to leave my favorite restaurant so disappointed and confused. I thought about this meal for truly the rest of the trip, even David had said my demeanor had changed. Maybe I took the meal a little too personally? Anyways I hope that if I return to the Grey my next experience will be a much better one. I recommend only the four course tasting for the price and portions are much larger.
This extravagant little market and Savannah boutique resides in a 1874 old victorian building right in the heart of the city which used to be an old grocery store. It was restored and reopened by Paula and Teras Danyluk in 2001 as the Paris market where you can buy local candles, decor, jewelry and other Savannah goods. What is truly incredible is their wide selection of coffees, cafe beverages and fresh pastries. It is like walking right into a cafe in Paris. You will find in my journeys I love places that are able to capture you and bring you to a different place or a different time.
The design is that of Versaille with again the heavy light blue and gold accents. This is a cafe I would imagine Marie Antoinette to open if she was an entrepreneur. The petit cafe chairs and tables resemble french inspired decorum and really makes you wonder if you can eat a full meal off of one table.
Most food products are made in house however there are few local vendors with desserts and sweets for sale. They are all listed on their menu which is a great representation of other businesses. I tried a hot tea and a lemon bar on my last trip and even though I don't believe the lemon bar was made by the Paris Market it was so divine. This will definitely be a breakfast spot for my next visit to Savannah, this one is definitely not to be missed for a light breakfast or afternoon snack.
In the heart of Bern there is a new bear natural park that resides near the Aare river. Bears have lived in and around the city of Bern since 1513 while the enclosed exhibit has been around since 1857, and you can find it just below the Rosengarten which we will talk about as well. They are beloved creature here in Bern, almost the mascots if you will. I did not attend any official tours of the bear park which is offered in many different languages, but as soon as I had walked up to the pit overlooking the beautiful river and gardens across the way, I immediately saw a huge brown bear. The park is about 6,000 square meters down the river and a beautiful sight for both the bears and visitors of the city. I was able to see the brown bear "Finn" while he sits, scratches his arms then paces up and down the mountainous trail. To see the bears it is a free attraction unless you would like a more behind the scenes look and special tours.
History and Legend: It was said that Duke Berthold vowed to name his new city in 1191 after his first hunt and kill. This was of course the brown bear. The official seal of Bern is a black bear holding a white shield upright. In their culture, there also many German children's books based on the bears and the city of Bern. You can also briefly see the bear pit among the James Bond saga.
When I first arrived in Bern, I had asked a young girl about my age at the farmers' market; what is the best thing to see in Bern? She immediately replied without hesitation; Rosengarten. It was quite a walk to the other side of the city from the capital but first thing in the morning (about 8am) it was quiet and peaceful. I hiked up a long and very steep walkway following the rose garden signs. I got to the top to a small little garden with only a few charming rose bushes right next to a small modern cafe that overlooks the entire city. Charming, but is this it? I enjoyed the few bushed and took a few funny pictures. I decided then to sit down to breakfast and look at the city a while. It read in German; small breakfast or big breakfast. Okay? It's just me so I guess... small? Out came coffee, orange juice and a basket of bread with jellies and butter. A half a loaf, a croissant and a plain muffin. Then, I saw it the real rose garden, right behind the cafe.
There was a beautiful and petit wedding going on in the garden. They had an old yellow Rolls Royce I believe for the sake of pictures, and it was just magnificent. When I finished my breakfast I made it a point to watch from a distance along with a few other spectators. Then I walked through the incredible gardens that were so well choreographed among the fountains and sculptures. Roses and flowers of all colors, then some hanging from the tops of the walkways draping down like curtains. There are over 400 different types of rose species in the garden as well as 28 different rhododendrons. There is also an enchanting water lily pond in the center that is truly great for photos. I didn't get any... darn it. It is a free and open recreational park for visitors and residents of Bern.
History and Legend: The Rose Garden actually served as a cemetery for the lower old town from 1765-1877. It took quite a bit of time to finish the actual park and it was finished in stages then by 1913.
Eating lunch at a fabulous little cafe in town I thought: I have five more hours here. Let's see a mountain.
This attraction I actually had to take a city bus for. It really was no big deal, I paid 2.40 francs for a short trip ticket and took the number 9 bus to Wurden from the Bern bus station (quite close to the capital). I got off at the second to last stop at Gurten (only about a 10 minute ride) then aimlessly walked around not knowing where to go. The railway station for the Gurten Mountain was actually in front of my face the entire time and only about a four minute walk from the bus stop. Then it is 11.00 francs for a round trip ticket up the mountain. Fair enough. I had no idea what I was getting myself into. The train went up the steep mountain and the views weren't intense but only similar to the Rose Garden where you could see the old town.
I then got off of the train at the top. I swear that this must be what heaven looks like. As far as I could see it was all right green fields of grass and even a small mountain coaster. I looked at the signs around the station and saw many hiking trails, lookout points, attractions for kids and then even a hotel, event spaces, a restaurant and a coffee shop. Everything was so clean and bright, it was truly paradise. I wish I hadn't have eaten lunch yet.
I walked around to see the mountain coaster, then hiked around the entire nature park only to arrive at the most beautiful views of the Swiss Alps. Below was a farmer bailing his hay on his golden fields with a brand new Fendt (my dad makes those tractors ha) and above the beautiful snow capped mountains just steal the show. I sat on the phone with David while I gaucked at God's magnificent creation before me. It truly felt like heaven.
History and Legend: In the 6th century Gurten was actually served as a watch tower. In 1393 Gurten actually saved the city of Bern as it was going through a water shortage. Drilling through Gurten they were able to fill up the city's fountains. During this time they has also planted vines for wine on the side of Gurten. In 1889 the first restaurant opened on Gurten which was as close to fine dinning you can get. Then Bern's largest children's' playground was then built for a more family-friendly feel. In 1902 Switzerland's first ski race was held on the Gurten and it now well known for its sports recreation even in winter time.
While I was in Bern, I was very lucky to have been apart of one their nature park markets where many farmers and local food producers all meet to show and sell their products. I was told that it was for promotional purposes mostly however everyone seemed to sell and do well. Markus, the winemaker I happen to be staying with wasn't necessarily showing his wine but his alcohol free schorle which is like a well made grape juice than can be drank alone, mixed with wine, water or even other alcoholic beverages.
At the market there was an array of fresh flowers and bouquets, vegitables, fruits, honey, cheese, meats, wine, juices all from the famous areas of Switzerland. They had live music, displays and games set up for the entire family. They hold these farmers' markets weekly and sometimes you will see the same vendors and sometimes not. Other markets are even bigger than others. Many of the markets are help in either Parliament Square or Bear Square, these are not to be missed every Tuesday and Saturday.
I don't know a lot about major cathedrals even though I have seen and been in many. All I know is that I love going in and admiring the old stain glass, the artwork, the sculptures and even reading on some of the history. Usually I will walk around and read everything I can in English, then I usually light a candle for a loved one, sit down and say a long prayer. Something very thankful. Before I leave I try to make it a point to decipher the stories that can be found within the stain glass, you can even read about it on your phone and it is like following a story. Give this a try next time you are at a cathedral. My favorite part of this particular church was the outter gardens that overlook the amazing river and Swiss Alps. Just like a fairy tale with beautiful green grass, flowers and even a library and coffee shop. The entrance for me was free and they opened at 10am.
History and Legend: The construction of this most famous catherdral strated in 1421 but the 100.6 meter tower was only finished in 1893 and it is currently the tallest cathedral in Switzerland. Talk about a delayed project. There was an earlier cathedral build but it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1356. Believe it or not many of the Altars within the church are funded by the local families of Bern.
Bern was named Switzerland's capital city about 170 years ago. Interestingly enough Bern is actually only the 5th largest city in Switzerland despite it being the capital. The capital building is beautiful overlooking the Aare river as well as the castle-like Bern natural history museum and Swiss Alps. Its home resides right next to the Swiss National Bank which I thought was incredibly interesting. The building itself has many old sculptures and statues as well as many gold accents with a large capital dome on top. You can visit this any time of day and I highly suggest to walk around the building to see its amazing views however if you decide to go inside there are only certain times and there is maximum security, similar to going into the airport.
Funny enough Zurich is actually Switzerland's biggest city and their economic powerhouse. Politicians did not want to give too much power to the city as balance was very important to them so in 1848 Bern was officially names the capital city.
I was grateful that I ran into this little gourmet chocolate shop right before I left. I hadn't had anything sweet all day so I needed just a little chocolate to curve the craving. After walking by at least 50 bakeries and chocolate shops that day I really struggled to find something I really wanted. A pastry? Maybe. A bit of gelato? Maybe. All I knew for sure is that I wanted chocolate. (Wow shocker for me) On my way back to the market to meet Markus close to the capital I walked by Laderach. This beautiful window display of just giant bars of chocolate bigger than my chest sat open and stacked one on top of the other. It was a sign from the universe that this was where I was meant to be.
When I arrived I didn't really go up to the counters (I was exhausted and really feared to speak German and fail) so I avoided people all together. I grabbed the first delicious thing I saw; silk filled chocolate buttons. Just a small bad to curb the craving and I walked up to the cashier and set them down. "Das ist alles" I said (that is everything) and he asked me something else. I just said that my german wasn't good and that I was sorry. He responded in English; That's okay my German wasn't very good either. We talked for a good few minutes about him coming from a very dangerous place in Africa, he was happy to be living here in Switzerland. After our chat he offered me six free samples of the amazing chocolate from the case; dark chocolate blackberry, blueberry, white chocolate, chocolate and peach - I can't even remember the rest. This small kindness I believe will always stick with me. Even though this was just chocolate, the thought went a long way.
History and Legend: Laderach was founded by a man in the Alps, in a very small town in Switzerland in 1962. In 1970 he patents a special truffle making process that many chocolate makers use today; it was the manufacturing of hollow chocolate balls with thin walls for filling. In 2004 they adopted a very important business model in which they are similar to a cheese counter but for chocolate. In 2018 Paris the original founder's eldest grandson wins the Chocolate Master finals in Paris for two of his magnificent creations. You can now get these at any of their chocolate stores here in Switzerland. I wish I would have known that earlier and I would have picked an award winning chocolate.
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